Photographers log of Fiji 2006
Prolog:
Well I have to start by thanking Dr. Sharon Laughlin our Diving “Doc” who helped me on my travels before I even left. She had contacted me to help her with some pictures the Saturday before we were to leave. She noticed I was not feeling to well and I told her I felt like I was coming down with the Flu! She called the pharmacy and got me an anti-viral that I had to take for seven days that helped me kick a full on Flu in only a week or so instead of the usual two to three weeks! This was my first Flu in 17 years and what a time to get it! I only lost one dive on the first dive day of the trip the second dive in the morning was too much for my head and junk in my Sinuses. The Sea helped me get the rest out my head and put me on the road to recovery.
Thursday 23rd of November:
After a fine Turkey Dinner with the family it was off to the Airport and a 10hr 45min. flight to Nadi Fiji from LAX. The flight, Air Pacific FJ 811 on a 747-400, was great and without incident except my coughing during the long night that saw us land a little after 5:00am Saturday 25th of November. Here we boarded the buss for the three-hour trip to Pacific Harbor and 40min. ride to Beqa Lagoon Resort (Formally Marlin Bay Resort) one of the finest dive resorts in the world located on beautiful Beqa Island in Beqa Lagoon Fiji. This was my fifth trip to this Island and Resort and the same high standards still apply that made it the number one dive resort in the world in 2001. The first day gets you there for lunch and your dive briefing and enough time to set up your gear and get in a shore dive if you feel like it. I used the time to set up my cameras and relax to gather my strength although getting stronger and feeling better by the day I was still not on my full game. That night saw the locals entertaining at the resort with a Bula Band and some good times at the bar and another great meal. I made arrangements with the management to have my HD camera brought down to the boat in the morning by a couple of the dive boys. Their new Australian Manager Markus was easy to work with and very accommodating in every request that we had. We had eleven divers including Mike, Glen, Dave, Nancy, Steve, Peggy, Mike, George, Laurie, Tony Wiley, and myself.
Sunday the 26th of November.
Morning light comes early in Fiji about 5:00am and I am up with the sun setting up my camera with freshly charged batteries and servicing my “O”-Rings for a morning out on the lagoon. It is a big Lagoon and though we leave at 8:00am their were times that we didn’t get back until 2:00pm. So I checked everything twice and set up my dry bag with extras that might be needed. We used the “Fire Walker” this trip and it is time for her to see a good over hauler she has lost a lot of speed over the years and needs her bottom cleaned. The first dive was at Three Sisters and with the rain they had the week before we had to deal with about five feet of fresh water with run-off silt on top of the seawater. Once you dropped below the layer the visibility increased to over 60ft. with a light wind chop and very low current. It was a nice first dive for all and I got in for my first dive with the Flu. The clearing part went fine and the dive itself was no problem although tiring. Used my still camera just to get in an easy dive to find out what was going to be the result. I wasn’t sure if I was going to be facing a reverse squeeze, vertigo, or who knew what? Well as it turned out the worst sinus headache I have ever had, even though while underwater I felt fine, until on the boat where it just wasn’t working for me! The second dive was at Shark Reef and I laid it out on deck with my head in my hands and feeling like deck debris.
We returned back to the resort for lunch and a trip to Ravi-Ravi to visit old friends and introduce new ones to the local Fijians. Glen being a professor of Education was interested in the School Village and their education system. Tony did his magic tricks for the kids and adults as well. We got the tour of the school and an invitation to have Kava at the Minister house and of course more magic from Tony. I was feeling better by the hour as the pressure in my head eased as time passed. It was back to the resort for entertainment in the main Bure where the Bar is located and we have dinner. We were there with a bunch from Tennessee and before too long feeling like a part of our rowdy bunch. I showed the bartender how to make a Reedarita and the bar ran out of glasses in no time at all. These have become famous worldwide or at least wherever I have been, but will someday make it worldwide! Long days account for early bed times, after checking all the chargers and reviewing a few pictures it was time to try to get through the night without coughing a lung up, I was determined to get the HD fired up and in the water the next day, Flu or no Flu it was full speed ahead.
Monday the 27th of November.
Up with the sun again getting the cameras ready and shacking off the cobwebs from a night of dealing with the congestion in my head. The weather was a little windy with a light chop and clearing waters we headed for another great breakfast and the gathering of dive gear for the small boat ride out to the dive boats. The tide was on an out cycle and the dive boys were great about getting all my camera gear on the boats. For everyone else all you have to touch is your Skin, Camera, and any personal items you want to bring. The boats have Juice, Cookies, and lots of Water to keep you hydrated during the dive day. Today we headed for John’s Hole and a great Japanese Fishing Trawler that has collected great growth over the years. The visibility was better today and I had the HD in the water on its Lanyard ready to go on its first Fijian adventure. Once in the 80-degree water I headed south toward the sunken ship as the rest of the group gathered below the dive boat. The bow was the first thing that came into view, as I got closer, at a depth of about 70ft. where the visibility was about the same. I was there with just the Beast and all the beautiful coral growth gliding over the deck and a long the Gunnels with the wide-angle lens capturing all the beauty of this wreck for HD display at a date in the future. In no time at all the rest of the divers were filtering in with their eyes glued to the decks and all the living creatures that now call it home. A Red Lionfish with a friend floated behind the Wheel House a Mid-Ship as divers flashed away with their cameras capturing their graceful movements as the swam just inches above the decks. The DM found a perch on the mast on the Forecastle where he could keep a watchful eye on his charges below. After about 25min. on the wreck it was time to head for John’s Hole, a beautifully decorated swim through, with Soft Corals and Sea Fans lining the edges and sides of the 40ft long swim through. A few years ago a got a still photo in this Hole of a Golden Murex on the wall. I was busy with all the beauty around me that I forgot about my head and was feeling fine as rain. After a 50 plus minute dive it was time to hang the Beast on its Lanyard and climb out. We had picked up a little more wind and chop while in the water and required us to hand up our equipment and climb aboard. Once on board with the beast hauled in, I was off to the top deck, where my head reminded me it was still there in all its glory of a Flu. With head in hand it was off to the next dive site and I was hopping it would be a two tank day for me.
The next site was Turtlehead Reef with a set of beautiful Boomies full of live and color. After a surface interval of an hour plus my head was feeling better and I readied the still camera for the next dive. I actually had a small smile on my face as I geared up for the dive. A Giant Stride later and I was enveloped by the warm water and heading down the side of one of the Boomies at the site. It was one cool picture after another as I tried to remember my mental checklist to get the pictures I needed and wanted. With the Flu on my mind it was an effort to even remember I had a list let alone what was on it. I was still very happy that I was making the second dive of the day without a pounding headache.
A note about my HD camera, I have to remark how well built the Sony FX-1 is. I pound this camera around water and have dropped it a couple times with no effect until this trip. I dropped it a broke the LCD display when the glass shattered, but the camera it’s self didn’t let me down and I am very pleased with its performance. It is a proven performer that should have a operator that pays better attrition to it, but it gets used in real life situations and I like that. The only issue is weight including the L & M housing that cost me extra every time I fly. I took both my systems out on the boat everyday so that I could cover both aspects of beautiful Beqa Lagoon. On smaller boats without camera tables it is a challenge to keep both safe and in good condition. I use the rinse tanks for rinse only and store the cameras some place safe from shock and bumps from other systems.
Back to the action at Turtlehead Reef as the wind and seas picked up above us the conditions below stayed about the same, a little murky but not too bad, you just had to get as close as possible to cut out the back scatter. This reef system has a lot going on the top of the reefs with more fish and corals than you think possible. We climbed back aboard and headed the boat towards lunch and another afternoon on Beqa Island with friends. After a bumpy ride back across the Lagoon we unloaded and headed for another fine meal and a dip in the new pool. It was a great addition to a well-appointed resort that now gets used by a number of the guests. The old pool was too small and was always cold while the new pool was warm and inviting as well as relaxing. It was easy to nap on afternoons like these with the Flu waning and the cameras taken care of a power nap was perfect. Then off to the Big Bure for Popcorn that we brought and a Reedarita before dinner. Again we were entertained by the Bula Band and exchanged dive stories between both groups. This is one of the best parts of diving with such a diversity of people we all have diving in common that breaks the ice and allows for good times by all. By the way the Fijian word for Ice is Ice, because until the Europeans showed up there was no such word or ice in Fiji.
Tuesday 28th of November.
Dawn brought a beautiful day of light winds and calm seas. I was feeling better buy the day and was up and setting up the cameras for a day in the Blue World of Beqa Lagoon. We had another great breakfast and loaded up the skiff for our short trip to the mooring line where the Fire Walker awaited us loaded with our dive gear and set up just the way we liked it. The weather was holding and we headed for a dive site called “Fantasy” in Beqa Lagoon that consists of a couple of large Boomies full of soft corals and a multitude of fish. There were a number of Red Lionfish on the main Boomie and Anemone Fish on the tops of all of them. This is a beautiful site and had to chose between stills and HD, but I know at this site it didn’t matter. After a dive that lasted over an hour with no current at all and no wind or chop we headed out side the reef to find a new site on the outside of the reef. I was the first one in at this new site and the Dive Boys named it Reed’s Hard Coral Garden. Being on the outside of the reef and pounded every day the hard corals were in great shape, but not good conditions for soft corals or too many little fish. It had a great wall and some fun swim throughs for the HD.
After this dive I climbed out and had to heave with all my Flu residuals left over from the week. You would have thought I was sea sick watching me, but it was the Flu’s last fling at trying to make miserable and it almost worked. We cruised back the same direction that had brought us a pod of Spinner Dolphins on the way out, but not one to be seen this time and no magical Bow Dance to the cheers of diver and crew a like. With memories like these how could I let a thing like the Flu get me down.
A smooth ride back and it was time to clean the gear have lunch and go to Rouka Village to see Ratu Tqacolla and his wife. He became Ratu when his brother Ratu Kinney passed away last November. Ratu Kinney was a great friend and will be missed by all that had the pleasure of meeting him and taking his famous Village and Church tour. We brought gifts for the kids and eyeglasses for the Ratu’s wife to pass out as needed. The Village now has it’s own little tourist store that Tony and I suggested to Ratu Kinney a few years ago and to see it open was another smile on our faces. Over the years we have brought a ton of School Supplies, Cloths, Medical Supplies, Toys, and Eyeglasses. We love to help out where we can and these wonderful people can use our help and better yet they appreciate it without expecting it in any way. This puts a prospective on life and warms your heart to see the true gratitude in the eyes of the “Friendliest People on Earth” and makes you examine the priorities in your own life.
We returned just in time for the Fire Walking. They build a fire and let it burn for about five hours with large stones in it. Then they remove the remaining wood and arrange the stones flat on the bottom of the pit. After they’re stabilized so they don’t tip as the Walkers walk across they line up to take turns walking across the pit and standing on the Hot Stones and shout Bula to the spectators with hands in the air. The Stones are hot enough to set bundles of grass on fire on contact as the Walkers toss them in to bless the stones and pit. At the end they cover the pit with green branches and squat to sing a Fire Walkers song. The complete Story of the Fire Walkers was best told by the late Ratu Kinney of Roukoa Village, it is said that it started in the Village of Daquibeqa on the south side of Beqa Island. We have been lucky enough to have visited this village a number of times and this time meet the new Ratu that has taken his place in the village after the old Ratu died a couple of years ago.
After The Fire Walking the Walkers meet with the guest for pictures and hand shaking. We then all headed for the Bar and another great dinner and dessert. More Bula Band and visiting among the two groups and a few friendships developed and it was time to put head to pillow as soon as all the batteries were charging and the housings serviced for the next day.
Wednesday the 29th on November.
Another great day was downing and I was feeling better as time passed. I readied the housings and cameras and had been told if the weather held we would be going out to Frigates Pass for a wall dive and if luck enough a second outside the reef dive at My Best. We headed down the pathway past the Frog Pond Bures, just ask George about the frogs, and to the main Bure for breakfast, and grab our Skins from the Dive Locker. We loaded up as usual except a little earlier because of the long ride out. By 7:30AM we were heading for Frigates Pass on a smooth sea and fun chatty ride as the dive stories flowed. We pulled up to the mooring and had pretty good visibility 100ft plus from the surface. With a double overhead left hand break in the background we were at a site called Surf Zone. I splashed the Beast for this nice wall dive with swim throughs and cathedrals along a Swiss cheese reef. We were there with at least 5 White Tip Reef Sharks, Giant Clams, Hard Corals, and a verity of colorful fish. We headed down the wall to about ninety feet or so and headed out toward the outside of the reef until about half our air was depleted and turned around heading back along the top of the reef. Over an hour later I was hanging the Beast on the Lanyard to be hauled aboard. On this dive Tony Wiley used his communication mask so we could narrate the video and used all of his air on the last shot of the dive.
From Surf Zone to My Best is a short hop, but the wind and seas had come up big time from the east, so being on the out side of the reef was an advantage. Some divers were worried about the conditions being outside the reef and thought about sitting this one out. After the dive they were all glade they didn’t as tucked in behind the reef we had wind but no surge or current. The Boomies that comprise this site have a number of swim throughs and cuts that harbor lots of fish and I have seen sharks here many times in the past. I took my still camera and got Flat Worms, fish of all colors, and some great Soft Coral. The Visibility was still pretty good and the hour long dive went by quick as there was so much to see and we worked our way around the Boomies getting higher on each pass and as we did it got more and more colorful the closer to the tops we got. We ended with all aboard with big smiles and a hunger for Beekajuice and cookies. We were now facing big seas and clouds that had rolled in on the wind. It was a slugfest heading back to Beqa Island and the spray was breaking over the bow as we headed east right into the wind.
By 2:30pm we were pulling up to the mooring line and loading into the small skiff heading for lunch and a trip to Ravi-Ravi for Prize Giving Day at the school as it was their last school day before Summer break. Professor Glen was a Guest of Honor and wasn’t going to miss it come rain or high water! And it did and he didn’t! I was still feeling the Flu and took a small nap and then headed for the Pool for a dip. It felt so good in the warm water just relaxing and looking forward to a popcorn snack that the Chef Lalo made so great with butter and honey, man was that good with a cold drink and sweet fingers covered in butter. We bring popcorn with us each time and the Fijians love it and it helps get you through Happy Hour instead of the Parrot food they call a snack.
We settled in for another night at the bar and a another great Meal and Dessert. More stories of diving and the day’s adventures at the school. Before you know it was after 10:00pm and time to head to the Plantation House and my room. A quick check on the chargers, some conversation with the Professor, and it was time to crawl on to my big Fore Poster Bed that was turned down with an Orchid on the Pillow, the Air Conditioner cranked up and humming, and the hope of a restful night in the back of my mind. It was getting better everyday and every night as well I was starting to fell human again.
Thursday the 30th of November.
Once more the sun was coming up over the hill behind us early on this late spring day with no time adjustment that we call “Day Light Savings Time” to coordinate the clock and the sun for better sleeping. With less coughing now sleeping a little longer was looking better every morning. The sky was light by 4:45am each morning and my brain kept saying get up and start moving. My watch gave up the ghost on the first dive of the week so guessing was my only hope of being on time. I laid in my bed trying not get up too early, but afraid to sleep past the time I needed to get breakfast and all my camera stuff ready for another full day. Well I guess over the years I have developed a good sense for the time and it worked out every morning. If I was wrong it wasn’t by much and I was usually early rather than late. I headed down the walkway again for the fifth time with an arm full of gear. The rest of the divers filtered in two by two and one by one until the next thing you know they were all setting around the big wooden tables with the day menus and order slips that we filled out each day. A good hardy breakfast with some fresh fruit and lots of fresh water and juice and it was time to load for our last regular day of diving.
This time we headed to Soft Coral Flat Plateau with a little wind and chop in our face but not bad. We were faced with a cap of a couple of feet of fresh water runoff and silting from the storm that had blown in the day before as we were heading back. It rained all night off and on, but had hit the big island hard and we could see the effects for ourselves. You couldn’t see five feet down, but once you were under it we had 80ft visibility and no current at this beautiful site. I decided to do the still camera on this dive with low light and not sure of the conditions that we would find. We saw Banner Fish, Blue Ribbon Eels, Lion Fish, Mora Eel, Puffer Fish, and a bunch of Anemone Fish festooning the tops of the Boomies as seems typical in Beqa Lagoon. It is defiantly the standard for this large oval Lagoon with all its tall standing pinnacles known as Boomies. We climbed aboard at the hour mark to find the wind had picked up and the wave action was getting a little rougher in this part of the Lagoon.
I suggested to the DM that we head back and do the “Reef Wreck” in front of the resort were we would be protected by the leeward side of the island and hopefully find little our no current at this site. We headed to the buoy that marked the site by the shallow reef markers with radar reflectors on them. We tied up by the stern and the DM thought that the current might be a little tough and warned that if carried away to use your signal device and we would be picked up by the boat down current after the dive was over. A couple of the divers decided it might be too tough a dive to tackle and decided to abandon ship for a early lunch back at the big Bure. We splashed down and grabbed the moorin |
